Fall in Belgium and Switzerland

Last time I wrote about my travel adventures I was still in Asia. On
September 16th, 2010 I arrived in the land of chocolate, Belgium.
Waiting with a big hug and a new orange car was my good friend,
Celine. It has been a year and a half since we last saw each other in
Canada and yet it was like no time had passed at all. She made me feel
right at home in her beautiful place. Together we traveled to Brussels
to visit her friends Henk and Julie. Riding yellow co-op bikes and
eating french fries were highlights for me. Julie and I also went to
see a black and white movie accompanied only by a pianist.

Celine and I traveled North to Belgium's only shoreline for the
weekend. There was a beautiful stretch of white beach with many people
relaxing and taking in the last rays of autumn sunshine. Shell fish
are a specialty in the area, Celine and I treated ourselves to a fancy
dinner. During the month I had a chance to meet most of Celine's
family, all lovely people. I biked around the country side, bought a
new wardrobe and heard an elks mating call. After a wonderful month it
was time to catch the train South to Switzerland where Reto was
waiting.

First meal on Celine's deck

Orval beer made by local monks, mmmmmm

Relaxing in the sun on Belgium's North shoreline

Seafood anyone??

Belgian countryside

Freaky red mushrooms in the forest near Celine's home

Unfortunately a train strike in France meant my straight forward, one
transfer trip to Brugg became a detour involving two trains and a bus
ride. Fortunately there was another girl in the same predicament and
she spoke French as well as German. She also taught me several Swiss
German phrases I needed to greet Reto and his friends in the coming
months. When we finally arrived Reto was there with open arms. It was
really great to see him after a month apart.

Retos apartment is conveniently located just a block from the train
station. When he opened the door it was like arriving home. He has the
sweetest third floor apartment. It is not big but has all the
essentials. Its peaked ceiling finished in wood panel reminded me of a
Swiss skiing chalet. The best part of the apartment is the view of the
passing trains. It is like having the world biggest train set just
past the window.

I quickly learned that Reto is a bit of a social butterfly. He likes
to provide select friends with lunch meals and there is always someone
floating in to say hello or have a drink.

Reto and I spent the next month and a half in Switzerland before
deciding to travel back to the Philippines. During this time we
attended several parties, traveled by train to Zurich for shopping
excursions, took plenty of river walks, bought absinthe directly from
the distillery and cooked some fabulous food.

Autumn day in Zurich

Visit to the Absinthe distillery

Absinthe distillery

Walking in the forest of Brugg

Party Italian style at Francos (yes that is an industrial meat cutter)

Halloween party with real pumpkin soup

Did I mention Italian do not mess around

Seafood for everyone!

Party till your stuffed

Siem Reap, Cambodia

After 5 months of traveling it was time to slow down. I convinced Reto that we should stay in one place for the whole month of August so that we could really feel the rhythm and vibe rather than quickly passing through. We decided to stay in Siem Reap, home to the famous Angkor Wat and Khmer Rouge.

Statue in Angkor Wat

Planting Rice

Temple Flags

We found this delightful guest house called Smileys. It was centrally located. The room had a fantastic balcony that looked out over the city and the best part was it cost $5 a night. We managed to hook into a nearby hotels wireless Internet although it was shaky. It was enough to send the occasional email and watch a late night streamed movie. After a week the local tuk-tuk drivers stopped asking us if we needed a ride. They even started asking us where our bicycles were. Reto and I rented bicycles for $1 a day to travel around Angkor as well as get out into the country side.

We discovered a great breakfast place just below our balcony. $3 buffet breakfasts were fantastic especially on biking days. Our favorite dinner places were the Silk Lounge and The Indian. The Silk Lounge had the best fish and shrimp salad. It is operated by a young Khmer family from Phnom Penh. The atmosphere was trendy with low comfy bed chairs and mood lighting. The Indian just had amazing food. For $15 we ordered Tandoori chicken, Alu Gobi, two nan or roti and rice as well as chai and Chang beer. Due to the fact that there are so many tourists in town to visit Angkor Wat the restaurant and accommodation choices are top notch.
Reto and I also bought a water heater so that we could make tea and coffee in our room. At the market we found a coffee supplier. A half pound of rich, dark, chocolate aroma coffee grounds from Laos cost $2. This was the most amazing coffee ever!

Angkor Wat is a temple complex at Angkor, Cambodia, built for the king Suryavarman II in the early 12th century as his state temple and capital city. As the best-preserved temple at the site, it is the only one to have remained a significant religious centre since its foundation — first Hindu, dedicated to the god Vishnu, then Buddhist. It is the world's largest religious building. The temple is at the top of the high classical style of Khmer architecture. It has become a symbol of Cambodia, appearing on its national flag, and it is the country's prime attraction for visitors.
Passes are sold in one-day ($20), three-day ($40) and seven-day ($60) blocks. Reto and I opted for the three day pass. It gave us enough time to rest and ride as much of the park as possible. It was hard to escape the hoards of tour groups, tuk-tuks and motorized vehicle but we managed to find beautiful big trees to shade and protect us. The park was amazing no doubt about it. Everyone needs to visit once in there lives. Even more than the temples the children of Angkor were special. These children live in the perimeter of the park. It is common to be approached by kids as young as three trying to sell everything from postcards to books.

I wondered where the expensive park entrance fees were going and if the local people saw any trickle down. I found this site written by a fellow traveler http://www.travelingmark.com/cambodia/apsara-authority-cambodia

I knew the Cambodian government was corrupt I just did not realize the extent of it. I really enjoyed the month in Siem Reap but I wonder if our presence there is helping or hindering the Khmer people. They have suffered such loss and hardship. I am not sure western influence is aiding anyone except the government.

Pump play


Living in Angkor


Fellow bikers


Kheng, a very special boy!


Angkor tree

Reto and Margo taking a break

Elephant made of recycled guns

Roadside gas station

Monkey around

Angkor carving

Child of Angkor

Budda temple

Biking the countryside

My time in Asia was fantastic. I met some amazing people and saw fasisnating things. Reto and I have now ''been on the way'' as he would say for six months. It is time to check out a new continent. Europe here I come, first Belgium to visit my good friend Celine and then off to Switzerland to meet up with Reto and Patrik once again. See you on the other side!

Adventures in Laos

Laos, officially the Lao People's Democratic Republic, is a landlocked country in Southeast Asia, bordered by Burma and People's Republic of China to the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south and Thailand to the west.

Reto, Patrik, myself and our new friend Salva crossed the Thai boarder into Laos. The trip took less than 10 minutes in a boat. On the Laos side of the river we checked into immigration with all the other lost looking backpackers. As the only Canadian in the group I had the largest visa payment, a whopping $42. The others paid various amounts all under $35. After paying and being processed we caught a van to the bus station and then a bus to Luang Namta. We stayed there for several days and prepared for our trip North to Muang Sing. There was not a
lot to do in the town of Luang Namta other than visit a market, several temples and prepare for trips elsewhere. Reto and I rented bicycles and road into the country side. It was great to have Salva traveling with us. Four is always better than three and I think Patrik enjoyed having a roommate.

Crazy Salva

It also made the motorbikes more economical, not that they were expensive at $3 a day. We rented the motorbikes for a week and traveled 56 km to Muang Sing. Reto knew a nice hillside guest home to stay at. The view from the balcony was beautiful and we were the only guests as it was low season.

Welcoming commity

Muang Sing really is in the middle of nowhere. If you go you will need your own transportation. Some of the highlights were riding the bikes to the Chinese boarder, visiting a tribe, getting to know my new friends and coming far to close to a wild cobra.

Riding bikes to Muang Sing

I would like to return in the future and stay with or close to one of the many native tribes in the area. It is far to easy to forget that most of the world lives in a very different way.

Fast food Muang Sing

From Muang Sing we traveled South to Luang Prabang. It is best known for it monks. They rise every morning at 5am and walk a path through the city collecting food offerings from locals. Buddhists believe that for a better life every male needs to be a monk for at least three months in there lives.

Morning Monks

The hospitality and graciousness of the Laos people became very evident to us when we realized Salva had left his backpack full of computer equipment and other electronic devices in a local food market. When he returned the next day to ask about it a Laos women pulled the bag from behind her stall where she had stored it for him. It just goes to show there are good people everywhere in the world!

Shopping in Laos can be a treat if you like weaved products and silk. We visited a market full of beautiful blankets, scarfs and table runners. They are also well known for silver and handy crafts. Reto and I hiked one afternoon to Henri Mouhot grave. Mouhot is often mistakenly credited with "discovering" Angkor, although Angkor was never lost. Mouhot died of a malarial fever on his 4th expedition, in the jungles of Laos. He had been visiting Luang Prabang. This monument was neat to see and defiantly off the tourist trail. Of all the cities in Laos we visited Luang Prabang was the most in transition. From Luang Prabang we headed South to Vientiane, Laos capital and largest city, situated on the Mekong river. It was common to see Hummers, Mercedes and other luxury cars driving by. There was also no shortage of boutique hotels and shops. For a country where the average citizen makes less than $2 a day it seemed strange. One great place you should not miss is the Cope Visitor Center(www.copelaos.org). This museum, interpreter, education center is really well done and entrance is by donation. It was highly interactive and appealing to all types of learners. It educates visitors on the dangers of land mines and how prevalent they are in the country side. I realized if you want to keep a population of farmers poor and under control litter there fields with bombs. The effects of war here will last for decades.

Garden bombs

While in Asia I realised there are many modes of transportation. The sleeping bus was a first. Traveling from Vientiane to Pakse Reto and I shared a double bunk meant more for a small Asian woman than two western foreigners. Patrik ended up sandwiched beside a Chinese guy on
his way home from vacation. We were the lucky ones as the bus was overbooked by 7-10 people and there was no seats. Needless to say we were happy to arrive in Pakse.

Local Transport

Pakse was the last stop in Laos before crossing the boarder into Cambodia. Other than our nice room and great Indian food Pakse was not much more than a boarder town.

Patrik and Reto

Local Market

Cooking along the way

Cambodia here we come!

Thailand is not the Philippines

I think I will take ski vacations from now on.

Thailand is not the Philippines. I realized this from the beginning. Immediately obvious was the choice of food, fast service, clothing options and amount of tourists. Thailand has an active tourism culture which the Philippines lacks. It is very easy to navigate and they cater to foreigners. Now I can see why everyone travels here. After a day in Bangkok I traveled North to Chaing Mai. Big cities are not my favorite. I took the overnight sleeper train. Recommendation for anyone thinking of this trip, book the lower bunk or better yet catch a plane. If you choose to travel by train do not stay in the air conditioned cars. You will freeze and most likely get sick.

Chaing Mai is located 700 km (435 mi) north of Bangkok, among the highest mountains in the country. I used it as a rest point between Bangkok and a place called Pai. After visiting open air markets and the university art gallery it was time to travel to Pai. From the day I touched down in Thailand Pai was calling me. The road to Pai had many curves. I have never been on such a crazy ride. The driver was obviously in a hurry or trying to make his passengers sick. This poor girl sitting in the back of the van was the first to loose her lunch out the window. By the time we reached Pai a group had formed. It included Fedde from Holland, Ruth and Ben from England and Adam from England. We all went to Indiana Cottages for the night. Adam had stayed there. The cottages were beautiful however we had to cross a brown, muddy river on a rickety bridge made of bamboo. It was like crossing an avalanche shoot, one at a time. I did not really trust the bridge. I guess my instincts were right. That night the water rose quickly and washed the bridge away. Needless to say we all moved to higher ground.

I found a cabana at a place called Pai Chan only 5 minutes walk from the center of town. It was the first place that felt like home since leaving Canada. For only 200 peso ($6) a night I had an open air shower, pool, real sheets and comforter, a mural on the wall, a fish pond just outside the window and a mountain view just beyond that. When I realized I also had a lemon grass plant just outside the window I was in love. I like to make ginger, lemon grass tea.

After settling in I walked into town and found this sweet little chai shop called Art Design Way. Sandy and Otto, a Swedish/Thai couple own and run the place. This was by far my favorite place in Pai. They make the best cup of chai! The shop also has this magical way of attracting neat people. I met Jost, Lucy and David all from Holland and Adam from America there.

Pai is a laid back hippy town that attracts great people. I learned how to ride a motorbike and I even found a cheese dealer. In Asia it is a big deal to find cheese and real chocolate. The only reason I thought this was so great was because I was meeting up with the Swiss boys after Pai and I knew they would enjoy the cheese. It is also fun to say I have a cheese dealer in Thailand. After 10 days in Pai it was time to say goodbye to my new friends and meet up with Reto and Patrik back in Chaing Mai. I will definitely return to Pai again.

It was really nice to see familiar faces in Chaing Mai. Reto and Patrik were there waiting for me. From there we caught a bus North to the Thai/Laos boarder. We stayed one night on the boarder in a awful guest house before crossing into Laos. The only good thing about the place we stayed was meeting a Spanish traveller named Salva. He quickly became part of the group.

Thank you Sue!

Reto and Margo

Making Cowboy Coffee

Love the fresh flowers

Next country Laos.. Lets go!

5 Countries and counting!

Wow, has it really been five months since I last wrote? So much has happened.

I have travelled to five additional countries (Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Belgium and Switzerland), covered 20,000km and have met a man I am proud to call my boyfriend.

When I last reported on my whereabouts I was still living in the Philippines in a small fishing village named Port Barton. I enjoyed many days on the water fishing, island hopping and learning Tagalog, the native language.

Fishing boats, Port Barton

Margo and Reto, Wild Boars

Port Barton Sunset

Dudong cooking Tuna

Caught Tanduay, local rum

Ferns our boatman and good friend

Cooking stove on the boat

Then one morning in late May everything changed. I had just returned from a week trip to Puerto Princesa (the largest city near Port Barton). I had been staying with a Filipina named Mell who I had become very good friends with. The morning after arriving home my phone rang at 7 am. It was Baby, a friend’s wife in Port Barton. She asked if I would like to join her and the family on a trip to Lagugan to visit a native tribe called the Batak. When I got the call I really had no idea what the next week would hold. Of course I said yes as I never like to pass up an opportunity. Twenty minutes later the Jeepney pulled up in front of my pink house. I ran out and hopped on the top. This is where I met Reto and Patrik, two Swiss friends travelling on a four month trip around South East Asia.

Reto and Patrik

Crowded Jeepney ride

The intention was to stay in Lagugan for three days. In actuality we were there for over a week. During the week I had the most scary motorbike ride of my life (we hit a small piglet), we hiked three hours to visit the Batak tribe, went fishing, participated in funeral ceremonies for our friends mother, ate and drank. All in all it was a great trip. I was glad to return to the comfort of my bed at the end of the week. The accommodations in Lagugan were a hard bamboo floor and no bathroom within five minutes walk. We were roughing it to say the least. I learned several things about Filipinos on that trip:

1. Filipinos live out loud. When you come from a family of 8 to 10 kids you do not have the luxury of being shy.

2. Filipino funerals are 9 days long. During this time family and friends gather to celebrate the life of the deceased by eating, drinking and playing games.
3. Filipinos do everything in groups.

After three months in Port Barton I was starting to feel the travel bug again. Reto and Patrik were leaving for Luzon, North of Manila, in several weeks and invited me to join them, I accepted. Frankly I needed to escape the 35 degree heat and infected bug bites on my legs and feet. The mountains of Northern Luzon were the perfect spot to recover.

Before leaving Palawan we visited Reto’s friend Alvin. Funny thing is that Alvin and I had our mutual friend Mell in common. It was just a matter of time until we met. The world really is very small. At Alvin’s place my creative, artistic side was reignited. Alvin’s owns a farm for creatives. He is an active artist feeding his family from commission work. His property is full of pieces of art or wood
waiting to be used in sculpture or furniture. I really enjoyed my time there. I will definitely return at some point to work with him. What a talent!

After leaving Alvin’s, Reto, Patrik and myself went to Bagio. We based ourselves in a rented apartment for several weeks. Bagio is a student city full of culture and art, something I was missing in Port Barton. While there Reto and I visited many galleries and art exhibitions. Vocas, Ben Hur Gallery, Tamawan village, The Bliss cafe and Ben Cab museum were just a few of the exhibits visited. These places inspired me to start sketching in my book. It felt really nice to see this part of myself again.

Reto and I on top of the Jeepney

Rice terraces from the Jeepney

From Bagio Reto and I travelled 7 hours North over mountain ranges (on top of a Jeepney) and through rice terraces to reach the mountain village of Sagada. We found a great place to stay called Georges. Sagada is well known for its hanging coffins, caves and hiking trails. Reto and I decided to try the "adventure" cave experience. We started in one cave and emerged 3 hours later from another. It was slippery, dark and wet but our guide, Edison, made the experience a fantastic one. Sagada was a really beautiful mountain town. I wrote this from our room balcony as I watched a storm roll in.

Caving in Sagada

Gracefully the forest green canopy is gently swept under a carpet of cascading cream clouds. The air fills with the easy sounds of a community returning home. A soft rolling thunder echos in the distance, evidence of the not so distant afternoon rains. The sky darkens as the mist draws near. Cool winds sweep down the valley to gently kiss my face. The rain is upon us now.

From Sagada we took the Jeepney over the highest mountain pass in the Philippines. We actually traveled right through the clouds. I think everyone should try riding on top of a Jeepney once in there lives! We reached Banaue several hours later. Banaue is best known for its 2000 year old rice terraces. They are said to be the stairs to heaven. Reto and I opted out of visiting the actual Batad tribe where the most famous rice terraces are located. It is very touristy and expensive to visit. We decided instead to hike the rice terraces surrounding Banaue and visit a waterfall. Hiking to the waterfall I gained great appreciation for the people who built these terraces. They walked on small, steep paths to tend their fields. They also had to carry everything down the mountain at harvest. Not to mention the average temperature is 30 degrees with no shade. From Banaue we looped back to Bagio where we picked up Patrik and headed back to Manila.

Playing around in Manila (don't worry the gun is not real)

The gang Reto, Margo, Tef, Patrik

My Philippine visa ran out 15 days prior to Reto and Patriks so I traveled to Thailand alone with plans of meeting the boys there. On June 25th I landed in Bangkok. After almost 4 months in the Philippines these are some of my observations:
1. Filipinos can sleep anywhere.
2. Questions asked by everyone: How old are you? Are you married? Do you have kids?
3. Rules are meant to be broken.
4. They say yes but really mean maybe.
5. So many babies.
6. Sex tourism is prevalent and nasty.
7. Filipinos can drink!

Stay tuned for my Thailand, Laos and Cambodia adventures!